In exceptionally simple terms, there are three general game plans employed. You must be agile enough to switch game plans almost instantly as the action of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can manage, to block in the opponent’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most adequate course of action at the begining of the game. You can create the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This involves closing your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. i.e., if your challenger rolls an early two and shifts one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you will be able to play 6/1 6/1 8/3 8/3. Your opponent is then in big-time difficulty because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have two or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point filled by at a minimum two of your checkers.) It should be used when you are decidedly behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The best areas for anchors are towards your competitor’s lower points and also on abutting points or with one point separating them. Timing is critical for an effective backgame: after all, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break down this straight away, while your challenger is shifting their pieces home, seeing that you do not have any other spare checkers to shift! In this case, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position up until your opposer gives you a chance to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your opposer to hit them in this case!